Scotland’s capital revealed, step by step
Edinburgh is a city best explored on foot — compact, full of character, and rich with views at every turn. From cobbled lanes and grand avenues to hilltop lookouts and riverside paths, walking reveals the layers of history and quiet beauty of Edinburgh in a way no car or bus ever could. We’ve curated some of our favourite routes across the city, along with two remarkable places to stay while you explore.
Just five minutes from the Old Town, Prestonfield House is a study in opulence and charm. Set within 20 acres of parkland where peacocks and Highland cows wander freely, it’s a place to slow down; to sip tea beneath chandeliers and savour a kind of theatrical grandeur that feels entirely, unmistakably Scottish.
Perched at the gates of Edinburgh Castle, The Witchery is pure gothic romance — all candlelight, velvet, and intrigue. Its nine suites and celebrated restaurant have made it a byword for indulgence, described by Big 7 Travel as “the most romantic in the world.” To stay here is to slip into another time, where every moment is magical.
Without further ado, let’s don our hiking boots and get cracking.
Arthur’s Seat
Rising above Holyrood Park, Arthur’s Seat is Edinburgh’s wild heart — an ancient volcano offering panoramic views across and beyond the city. The climb is steep in parts but easily manageable, with several routes leading to the 251-metre summit.
At the top, the reward is pure drama: the castle and skyline spread out below, the Firth of Forth glinting to the north, and the Pentland Hills fading into the distance. Whether you go at dawn for solitude or at sunset for golden light, it’s the perfect reminder that even in the heart of the city, nature is always within reach.
View from Calton Hill
Calton Hill
A short but rewarding climb, Calton Hill offers one of the most iconic panoramas in the city. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a showcase of grand ambition and design. Here you’ll find the Parthenon-inspired National Monument, the elegant Dugald Stewart Monument, and the Nelson Monument with its time ball that still drops at one o’clock each day.
On clear days, the view stretches all the way to the Forth Bridges and the Kingdom of Fife.
Edinburgh Castle
Commanding its volcanic perch high above the city, Edinburgh Castle is the unmistakable heart of the skyline — a symbol of Scotland’s strength and story. One of Europe’s oldest fortified sites, its walls have witnessed nearly a millennium of royal ceremony, siege, and statehood.
Once a royal residence and later a military stronghold, the castle now houses the Honours of Scotland, the nation’s crown jewels. From atop its ramparts, sweeping views are a fitting reward for a steady climb through centuries of history.
Scott Monument
Scott Monument
Standing tall at the eastern end of Princes Street Gardens, the Scott Monument honours one of Scotland’s greatest writers, Sir Walter Scott. Completed in 1832, its Gothic spire — the largest memorial to a writer in the world — is adorned with carvings of characters from his novels.
The monument is just as captivating from below, where Scott’s marble likeness sits with his loyal dog, Maida.
The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
A tranquil escape just a short walk from the city centre, the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh spans more than 70 acres of landscaped beauty. Founded over 350 years ago, it’s now one of the world’s leading centres for plant science and conservation. Wandering its glasshouses and arboretums, this fascinating collection attracts visitors all year round.
Cockburn Street, Edinburgh Old Town
Edinburgh Old Town
A labyrinth of cobbled streets and centuries-old closes, Edinburgh’s Old Town captures the capital’s soul. Begin at The Vennel, just off the Grassmarket, for one of the city’s most striking castle views. From there, climb to the Castle Esplanade before meandering down the Royal Mile — a spine of history lined with stories, spires and traditional pubs.
Pause for a dram, explore hidden courtyards, and feel the layers of the city’s past beneath your feet.
Walking Tours
Uncovering the hidden corners of the Royal Mile and revealing tales of intrigue, royalty and rebellion, Mercat Tours guided walks bring Edinburgh’s past vividly to life.
For something darker, join one of their renowned ghost tours — an atmospheric journey into the city’s shadowy underbelly. Or step beneath the streets at The Real Mary King’s Close, exploring Edinburgh’s only preserved 17th-century lane and the lives once lived in its shadows.
Dean Village
Dean Village
Just a short stroll from Princes Street, Dean Village feels a world apart from the busyness of the city. This picturesque pocket of cobbled lanes and gabled houses once thrived on the power of the Water of Leith, where grain mills turned as early as the 12th century.
Today, the hum of industry has long faded, replaced by birdsong and the rush of the river. It’s one of Edinburgh’s most peaceful corners — a reminder of the city’s past, beautifully preserved on the water.
The Water of Leith
Winding quietly through the city, the Water of Leith offers one of Edinburgh’s most peaceful escapes. Its leafy walkway follows the river for over 12 miles, sustaining herons, kingfishers and wildflowers on its way.
The route links many of the city’s treasures — from Colinton Village and the wildlife haven of Colinton Dell, to the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art, Dean Village, and the Royal Botanic Garden. Ideal for walking or cycling, parts of the path are also accessible by wheelchair, making it a tranquil journey for all seasons.
Portobello Promenade
Just three miles from the city centre, Portobello offers a breath of sea air and a pleasantly slow pace. Its two-mile promenade curves along a wide, sandy beach where swimmers brave the waves year-round.
Pause at Civerinos Prom Slice for wood-fired pizza or grab a perfectly poured flat white from The Little Green Van — a favourite among morning walkers. The seafront’s elegant Georgian terraces and restored Victorian baths hint at Portobello’s spa-town heritage, while its creative cafes and community spirit give it a distinctly modern charm.
View from Corstorphine Hill
Corstorphine Hill
A peaceful green ridge in the city’s west, Corstorphine Hill offers gentle woodland paths and far-reaching views across Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth. The circular walk rises gradually to around 160 metres, making it accessible to most walkers while still delivering a sense of escape.
Updated in October 2025. Information correct at time of publication.
First published 08 February 2021. Information correct at time of going to press.
