The Fair City of Perth

PERTH'S respectable reputation is second to none. Radio humorist Tam Cowan once said the nearest the city had come to a riot was a row over a squint cravat at a vintage car rally. But a stroll through the elegant streets and interesting alleyways shows that Perth is livening up.

McEwens in St John Street, opened in 1868, is still at the heart of the shopping scene. It's a department store - the only independent one in the city - yet the staff say hello as you walk in. It's not resting on its laurels: a cookware, linen and curtain department opened in a separate building last year and the citizens flock in for Gaggia coffee makers and Le Creuset pots.

In the same street are two of the Fair City's finest jewellers. Cairncross, established in 1869, sells a huge high-quality range from its spacious shop, but is probably best known for its unique jewellery incorporating Scottish pearls, which are selected and mounted in the workshop.

Timothy Hardie is known for its antique and Edwardian jewellery, though modern pieces are also on offer, and there is an on-the-spot valuation service.

In the High Street, the Jewellery Workshop has a range of creations from Ortak, Ola Gorie and lesser known Scottish jewellers, and also makes pieces to order.

Back in St John Street, a gold sign announces a new arrival: Carbone. It's the first UK outlet dedicated to this French women's fashion label. There are about 60 in France, and the winning formula of bright colours, bold designs and well-lit displays seems likely to take off here, judging by the interest aroused so far.

A short distance away in George Street are two clothes shops, each with its own loyal following. L'Uomo, with its striking black frontage and cool window displays - featuring icons such as Italian motor scooters - keeps a trend-conscious 30-plus clientele supplied with the best from Hugo Boss, Camper, Sticky Fingers, Sahza and Ralph Lauren. Next door but one, Parkes offers friendly service and carefully chosen women's wear from the likes of René Lezard, Lacroix and Synonyme.

Also in George Street, the Sporran Shop caters for customers regimental and civilian, and Fair City Flowers makes its presence known with a bright display. In South Street, Margaret Boyd at Elle offers some out-of-the-ordinary labels such as Nitya and Hauber. In the High Street, look into Mona Liza, with its striking curved ceiling panels - and, more importantly, its rails of must-haves from Kenzo, Versace and MaxMara. A few paces away are two traditional retailers that are pure Perth: award-winning butcher Simon Howie and shootin' and fishin' store PD Malloch. Adam McNee in Kinnoull Street, packed with mirrors, lamps and fabric, offers a full interior service - from a home refit to an accessory or a word of advice.

So, are there any one-off surprises? Well, the High Street has a shop full of all things wooden - chopping boards, picture frames, ornaments. It bears the admirably honest name Once A Tree. In Princes Street there is Guiscard, which for 20 years has sold an unrivalled range of teddy bears and dolls, priced from £6 to £650. In South Methven Street, This Little Piggy has continental children's shoes in every colour, with cute motifs galore.

All shoppers have to pause for refuelling, and there are numerous options. Betty's Coffee Parlour in George Street is a snug place for a filled croissant. Let's Eat Again, nearby, is a worthy partner to the original Let's Eat, in Kinnoull Street. In Mill Street, the Lemon Tree is a wholefood shop and vegetarian café which attracts customers from a 50-mile radius. If cutting-edge style is essential for eating pleasure, head for The Loft, above très trendy That Bar in South Street. Here you can settle into the chic leather seating to enjoy the light pouring through the glass roof - and some well-presented dishes (lamb kebab with rice and a ginger beer: £6.50). If all you want is a pint in a no-nonsense pub, there are few finer than the Ring o' Bells in St John's Place.

Those who crave culture can find it at one of Scotland's top repertory theatres, Perth Theatre in the High Street. The Playhouse in Murray Street is one of the few classic Thirties picture houses not turned over to bingo. The Museum and Art Gallery in George Street has a fine municipal collection and the JD Fergusson Gallery in Tay Street makes marvellous use of a former waterworks. If you like to take your art home, rather than just look at it, try the landscapes at Nigel Stacy-Marks in George Street. There is a scattering of modern street sculptures, and the Perth Festival - music, comedy, theatre and art - runs from May 17-27. Stars include Michael Marra, Carol Kidd and Bill Wyman. Details on 01738 472706.

And so to bed. But where? Well, the Huntingtower Hotel, a modernised mansion on Crieff Road, has many fans. Further out, try the spectacularly renovated Altamount House Hotel in Blairgowrie, the relaxing Ballathie House at Kinclaven or the elegant Murrayshall House Hotel in Scone.

Don Currie

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