I have been at The Old Course Hotel for just a couple of months. I came back up from London after spending over 4 years at Cameron House on the West Coast of Scotland.
This time of the year, during summer, I would suggest beef carpaccio which is a whole fillet of beautiful Scottish beef gently sealed off just on the outside for about 30 seconds right round so you get a dark edge. I then roll it in a layer of Szechwan pepper very finely ground, just a very thin layer, to give it a little bit of a different hit. Once it’s rolled, we wrap it tight in cling-film to get a perfect round shape. Then we pop it in the freezer for a couple of hours to firm up. As it is carpaccio you slice it very thin. It’s easier to slice once its been in the freezer and it should be a paper thickness. Serve that with a beautiful light salad, lots of herbs including wild garlic leaves which we were using earlier in the season and some nice rocket leaves to give it a nice peppery flavour. Served with a little bit of dressing, lemon juice, some olive oil …nice, simple and light, the beef carpaccio is then sliced and goes round the edge of the plate slightly overlapping. We brush that with some of the dressing, there’s a touch of pepper in there just to give it a bit of spice. And then the nice herbs with garlic leaves in the centre of the plate. I keep one or two of the garlic leaves separate and I deep fry those so that they get a nice crisp texture and just use that to garnish it on top. Nice, wild flavours in there, and with a peppery marinade it is nice and fresh, and brings out the flavour of the beef.
We have lots of beautiful fish around the coasts of Scotland and in the rivers. I like to use Sea Bass this time of the year. Nice wild bass, I like to use a 2-3 kilo fish, so you get some nice meaty fillets which cook nice and moist. Scaled and nicely filleted, we then score lightly on top, add a touch of lemon zest rubbed underneath the skin with a bit of olive oil, just gives it a bit of freshness but not overpowering the delicate flavour of the fish. And I cook that on a beach stone.
When I go walking my dog with my daughter on the beach, we see the beautiful big beach stones there, we occasionally collect a nice big one and then put it in the oven for five or six hours, so its really roasting hot on about 200 degrees. Lightly season the sea bass with a little sea salt and some pepper and then rub some olive oil, just a tiny bit on both sides of it and then cook it on the stove, skin side down first just sealing it off so that the skin is nice and crisp and then just turn it over cooking it skin side up. It takes 6-7 minutes in the oven to cook it - nice and moist and opaque in the middle. I like to serve that with celeriac, something which is grown a lot in Scotland. I’m doing the celeriac 3 ways, making a third of it into puree, a third sliced very thinly on the mandolin and made into celeriac crisps and then another third cooked into a fine julienne. I’m just cooking it in some boiling salted water for about 30 seconds, refreshing it, draining it mixing with some mayonnaise and some chives to make a remoulade.
We present this on the plate, divide into 3 equal parts and then just sit the sea bass on the celeriac puree, and just to finish that you’ve got 3 nice flavours there, the celeriac and the fish, I use something which is a bit different, lamb juices. Make a stock from lamb and finish it off with some lamb fat, which we put into a pan and render down. Add that to the lamb stock at the last minute so it gives a split effect and lightly drizzle some round the dish. The flavour from the lamb juices go well with the sea bass and celeriac. The combination is beautiful, nice, fresh, not to heavy.
For dessert we’ve got some beautiful rhubarb which grows on the fairways on the 17th hole by the pond. This will be very prominent next year with Open being here. We use the rhubarb and some elderflowers also growing there, and we make a rhubarb and elderflower compote. And, just a little twist on the traditional Eton mess dessert, we use some meringues which we crush down. We then add some cream into which we put some elderflower puree and then make layers of the elderflower puree, cream, meringue in a glass. You get about nine, ten layers in the glass, of the beautiful ruby red from the rhubarb, the white of the cream. I like the meringues to have a touch of colour on them, so you get 3 contrasting colours which we layer up and serve like a knickerbocker glory in a big tall glass, with a tall spoon. It’s a beautiful combination of those fruit and flowers grown on site, working well with the sweetness of the meringue and the fresh double Scottish cream that we use.
We have three restaurants at The Old Course Hotel. We have the traditional Jigger Inn which was the original railway station when the hotel was built as a transport hotel back in the late 60’s. There we serve good quality Scottish produce, simply done, in line of what you expect at a good quality pub food. It has a nice informal atmosphere with some great local ales and is a great place for families and especially for golfers who love that after they’ve played 18 holes on the Old Course. We also have Sands Restaurant which is our seafood and grill, very prominent in Scottish produce - beautiful lobsters, beautiful steaks. We are a member of the Scottish Beef Club. Our beef is recognised as top quality Scottish beef from a local farmer. Our beef is hung for a minimum of 21 days. Our lobsters come from a man who gives us a call when he’s out fishing, to see how many lobsters we want. We get them within 5-6 hours later in the kitchen. They’re beautiful and fresh. We also get lots of crab, langoustine … there’s a beautiful seafood platter on our menu, one of our signature dishes.
On the forth floor of the Hotel we have our 3 rosette fine-dining. The fourth floor is now becoming quite exclusive with our whisky taster room and our deck over looking the golfers playing on the 17th tee. In the fine dining Road Hole restaurant, we serve the more classical, quality food in a more formal environment, with views overlooking the beach and the golf course of the Old Course Hotel.