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Scotch
Whisky and Liqueurs
Until the
1980's only four regional categories of malt whisky were generally used by the
trade: Highland / Lowland / Campbeltown / Islay.
Lochranza
Distillery, Arran
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From
the consumer' point of view it was not until the mid-1980s that the flavour characteristics
imparted by the region began to be stressed by the producers.
The importance of
this is that the region, even the district, within which each malt whisky is made
makes a discernible contribution to that whisky's flavour. |
Whiskies
made within a particular region tend to have similar characteristics, so much
so that in a blind tasting it is often possible to ascertain where the malt comes
from, even when the precise distillery remains obscure.
However
we must be cautious. Regional distinctions have been reduced in recent years,
as increasing technological advances in the production process have allowed distillers
far greater control over the final flavour of their whiskies.
Also
such considerations as the origins of the cask, where the whisky matured, and
for how long, can all influence the flavour and make regional judgements difficult.
I use the general
division of Highland, Island and Lowland and then subdivide 'Highland' into North,
Speyside, Central, East West and Campbeltown, 'Islands' into Islands and Islay.
NORTH:
North Highland
Malts' Characteristics
North-Highland malts tend to be light bodied, delicate
whiskies with complex aromas and a dryish finish. They are sometimes spicy, sometimes
with a trace of salt. Some are faintly peaty (Highland Park, Scapa, Clynelish,
Balblair); in others the smoke is more like Lapsang Suchong (Pulteney, Teaninich,
Dalmore). They cannot take too much sherry-wood maturation although, the sherry-finishing
technique developed at Glenmorangie suits them well.
EAST
HIGHLAND MALTS
The malts from distilleries north of Aberdeen - Macduff (the product is named
Glen Deveron in its proprietary bottlings), Knockdhu, Ardmore, Glendronach and
Glengarrioch - are medium-bodied, malty, slightly sweet, smooth, slightly smoky
and with a surprisingly dry finish. South of Aberdeen - Royal Lochnagar, Fettercairn,
Glencadam - they become richer, more toffee-like, with citrus notes, but still
a whiff of smoke and still the dry finish.
WEST
HIGHLAND MALTS
West Highland malts are much less peated than their southern cousins in Islay,
although they all have at least a whiff of smoke and a mildly phenolic flavour.
If there is a uniting factor it is the sweet start and the dryish, peppery finish
of these whiskies, particularly Talisker and Oban. One might add Highland Park,
from Orkney. Ben Nevis is a one off; sweet, with a remarkable aroma and flavour
of coconuts. The brand Tobermory is a vatted malt, not a single malt.
CENTRAL
HIGHLAND MALTS
The offerings from the Central Highlands are a mixed bag. Generally they are lighter-bodied
and sweeter that their cousins to the east, but not as sweet as Speysides. Like
Speysides, they are fragrant - blossom, violets, elderflowers, heather, mint,
spice, pears: all these words appear in the tasting notes - but they tend to have
a dry finish like other Highland malts, apart from Speysides.
CAMPBELTOWN
MALTS
Campbeltowns
are traditionally full-flavoured and full-bodied whiskies, famous for their depth
of flavour and for their slightly salty tang in the finish. They were referred
to as "'The Hector of the West', the deepest voice in the choir". The overall
impression is often compared to 'sea mist'. Springbank is the senior offering.
It can take long maturation to great advantage, becoming raisiny and rich.
LOWLAND
MALTS
Lowlands
typically have a dry finish, which makes them excellent aperitifs. The dryness
comes from the malt itself, not from peat (Lowlands tend to use unpeated malt),
and this also lends a certain sweet fruitiness to the flavour and mouthfeel. Their
aromatic intensity is low, and tends to be grassy or herbal, with grainy and floral
notes. It used to be said that they leant a brandy-like flavour to a blended whisky.
SPEYSIDE
MALTS
Speysides
are essentially sweet whiskies. They have little peaty character (although some
have a whiff of smoke) and their salient characteristic is estery - typically,
this aroma is compared to pear-drops or solvent (nail varnish remover, particularly).
They can be highly perfumed: scents of carnations, roses, violets, apples, bananas,
cream soda and lemonade have all been discovered in Speyside malts. They take
maturation in sherry-wood well and can be rich and full bodied, medium and light-bodied.
ISLAY
MALTS
Islay whiskies
generally reverse the characteristics of Speysides, tending to be dry and peaty;
behind the smoke, however, can be gentle mossy scents, and some spice. The southern
Islay distilleries produce powerfully phenolic whiskies, with aromas redolent
of tar, smoke, iodine and carbolic. Bowmore, in the middle of the island, shares
these characteristics but is not quite so powerful, as does Caol Ila. Bruichladdich
and Bunnahabhain are lighter and much less smoky. All Islays have a dry finish,
the southern ones with quite a bite. more » |
