About Scotland

Tartan and Tradition

Kilt Making - Its Origins & Traditions No Costume is more instantly recognisable than the kilt - a multi-coloured national dress of swirling checks, lines and pleats. Spot a kilt in Delhi, in Texas or Venice and the mind immediately races across the globe to Scotland. Like all the best traditions, the kilt and its origins are shrouded in mystery. Like all the best garment designs the kilt is a model of practicality and simplicity.

The Celts relied upon their kilts to keep them warm and dry in the often cold and wet climate of the Scottish Glens and mountains. These original kilts were large long pieces of cloth, probably 28" wide which was the width of the looms in those days, and probably 7 or 8 yards long. If he was a big man two widths might have been joined together.

This plaid would do everything for the Highlander. Initially it would cover him whilst sleeping on the ground. He would also wear a shift or shirt of linen or cotton and when he got up in the morning, he would place his large belt underneath the material, lay on top of the cloth, fasten the belt around himself and stand up. He would then arrange the cloth so that it was flat in front of him, pleated or in tucks behind, and the long remaining piece would be thrown over his shoulder. On the belt would be a pouch in which would be his money - if he had any - and some oatmeal for his porridge in the morning.

While he was on the march over the hills, or in battle, the cloth might be gathered over one shoulder. If it started to rain, he could put it over both shoulders and if it started to rain really hard or to snow, he could put it over his head.

This was how the kilt originated and over the years its form gradually developed into the kilt we know today. For example, in the early days, the length was such that the bottom of it got wet in the heather and long grass, so it was gradually raised and raised and now, of course, the correct length of a kilt is just on the knee.

Tartan Today

A man's kilt today still uses normally about 8 yards of cloth and up to as much as 11 yards for a really big man. If the kilt is properly made, fits well and hangs well, the wearer is not aware of the weight of the cloth.

The great skill of the kiltmaker lies in the measuring the wearer and chalking the cloth, so that the pattern of each tartan sett is faithfully preserved not only across each pleat but also around the natural shape of the body beneath.

The making process first involves hand tacking the individual pleats in place, then carefully cutting away the upper sections of pleats so the kilt will not bunch and bulge in unsightly fashion around the waist. Two buckles are added for fastening and there is a double-layered lining of canvas and cotton around the upper section. A thin waistband is sewn around the top with the natural selvedge of the cloth forming the bottom edge. Finally two cotton hoops are added just inside the waistband. The origin of the hoops was to allow the kilts of army officers to be hung from tent poles to reduce the creases.

The sporran is an important aspect of any kilt : a simple style is available for day wear in either black or brown leather with three tassels. More ornate dress sporrans for special occasions feature fur and gilt craftsmanship. Whatever the style, the sporran has traditionally always be worn to the front, except when dancing or drumming when the preferred position is to the side. The right choice of shoes and socks are essential if tradition is to be maintained. To complete the picture of perfect Scottish Elegance, a small dagger called a skean d'hu is worn inside the top of the kilt sock or kilt hose.

Tartan at your Wedding

The National Dress of Scotland is becoming increasingly popular for Weddings and most specifically for the groom himself. On this day he shares the limelight with his bride and a kilt outfit is at one and the same time extremely smart, colourful and comfortable to wear. For many a man, his Wedding day will be the first time that he wears this splendid apparel and if he is wise, and indeed, if he is thrifty - because a Kinloch Anderson kilt will last a lifetime and more - he will choose the best he can afford. Kinloch Anderson are proud of their reputation. Personal service and advice to each and every customer has been their objective since 1868.

Wearing Highland Dress requires expert advice based on knowledge of past tradition and heritage, and on current practice. This advice includes which of the vast range of authentic tartans may be worn, which colourway to select - modern, ancient or reproduction - and the most suitable quality and weight of cloth.

The heart of the full Highland Dress outfit for the bridegroom is, of course, the kilt made to a length which comes to the top of the knee. Traditionally, this was often worn with a Kenmore Doublet in velvet with lace jabot, dress sporran, belt, hose and buckle or Ghillie brogue shoes, and some people still prefer this outfit, which is readily adaptable for evening wear afterwards.

An alternative, especially if the wedding is in the country, is a kilt jacket of the ordinary day shape and cut, in a dark charcoal or other tweed, and worn with the appropriate accessories. Another option, which has become more and more popular is the Argyll jacket in black barathea with cuffed sleeves and silver buttons. This versatile jacket is worn for the wedding with toning silver grey or shepherds check tie, and later can be converted for evening use with a black tie.

The Coatee and Vest - often referred to as a Prince Charlie - is normally considered to be evening wear, but is now becoming acceptable for Weddings, particularly if the celebrations continue through into the evening. The Coatee and Vest in black barathea, is worn with a black bow tie and evening dress accessories - a dress sporran, tartan or white hose and Ghillie brogue shoes.

Tartan trousers, worn with either the Doublet or Coatee and Vest, have recently become a popular and stylish alternative for the Bridegroom, who may feel, usually mistakenly, that his figure is not suitable for the kilt.

Finally, we cannot forget the Scottish Bride who may also desire to manifest her family heritage on her Wedding Day. She may incorporate her own tartan in her dress, head-dress, with ribbon or in any way she chooses. A tartan sash is not traditional bridal wear and is intended to be worn with a white dress for Scottish Country Dance Evenings. She may wear it at her Wedding - there are no firm rules on this - but must take care not to clash with her bridegroom's kilt.

« back